DIY Garage Door Torsion Springs
To be sure you are ordering the correct garage door torsion springs, please watch our “How to Measure Torsion Springs Video” by clicking the link and read this page completely. This video also teaches you how to tell the difference in a left hand wound or right hand wound spring so that you order the correct replacement torsion spring if you are only replacing one. Our goal is to help you is to teach you and to help out in anyway through the process. Listed below and on the springs size you find are some popular options and things you might want to change out while you are replacing your torsion spring. This could add life to you door and opener also make for a smoother more quiet door operation.
Frequently Asked Questions
A torsion spring can still be measured the same way as one without tension with 2 minor adjustments.
- The main difference is after a spring has tension it expands about 2” to 2.5” compared to when it is untensioned. We want the untensioned length, so just subtract 2 - 2.5” off of the the tensioned length (wire tip to wire tip, not the cones in the ends)
- The wire diameter is still going to be based on a 20 and 40 coil measurement. But since the coils space apart a little when tension you will need to compress or squeeze them together to get an accurate measurement. This can be done by pressing the stop end of your tape measure between the coils and pulling on the tape with it locked to compress the coils or a flat head screwdriver between the coils to compress them works too.
There are a couple of ways you can go about finding the correct torsion spring for your door.
The most common one is to measure your existing garage door springs.
- Wire diameter (wire thickness in thousands of an inch- using a 20 and 40 coil count measurement)
- Inside diameter or ID of the spring (stamped on the aluminum cones of the spring)
- Length of the spring (wire tip to wire tip, do not include aluminum cones in the end)
- Wind of the spring you will need to know if the spring is right-hand wind(clockwise) or left-hand wind (counterclockwise) spring. The diagram to the right gives a good example. The wind of spring determines which side the spring will mount on the center bracket.
- Our how-to video walks you through the whole process. How to measure springs
Yes and no, it really depends on if your existing spring is over a certain size. We typically do don’t recommend going to a double spring setup if your single spring is under .250 wire diameter. The gains are not really worth it and your 2 springs would be so small on wire diameter that it probably would not be a stock item and very uncommon industry wide.
If it is .250 wire or larger then you can always contact us with your existing size or through chat and we can convert it for you. Also in most cases you can look up your spring on our size and in the description it will have the 2 spring conversion done for you with a link to that spring page.
We encourage customers to change the center bearing out, in most cases they have a nylon bushing that is usually changed when you change the springs. If you change to the steel center bearing you can get 3-4 spring changes before it will need to be replaced.
End bearing plates or brackets are also a good idea too. While you have it taken apart it is and item to swap out to improve your doors smoothness and also you will not have to worry about a bearing seizing up and cutting through the torsion shaft.
Cables are typically ok but if there are any frayed spots it is a good idea to change them while you have the spring tension off.
How do I know what spring I need?
If I have one spring on my door should I convert it to a double spring?
This is a very common question and should be considered if you wire diameter on you spring is .250 or larger. Then it will be very beneficial to switch to a double spring setup. You will be using 2 smaller springs each lifting half of the door weight. Usually the 2 spring setup will last longer than the single spring, also will make your end bearings plates last longer because of less left and right movement of the torsion shaft. It is also extra insurance to prevent a cable from coming off of the drum which is more common on a single spring. When a spring does break on a double spring setup you still have tension on the cables and the one spring is still helping you lift about half of the door weight.
To convert your single spring to a double spring, get the measurements of your single spring and search for it on our site. Scroll to the bottom where the description is. The discription will tell you the lifting power of that spring for a 7ft and 8ft tall door. You will want a pair of springs that lift half of that weight each.
For example if you have a single spring that pulls 160 lbs on a 7ft door then you can do a search for 80 lbs pull and it will pull up springs that pull 80 lbs. Just make sure the new spring pulls 80 lbs on a 7ft tall door. We are working on having the conversion already figured up in the description for you.
If for any reason you still have questions, or don't see the size spring you need listed, call us at 1-866-813-7899 and we will be more than happy to help you.